LSA Supercharger Swap Guide

The LSA supercharger represents one of the most cost-effective forced induction upgrades available for LS engine platforms. Originally found on the Cadillac CTS-V and ZL1 Camaro, this Eaton TVS 1900 four-lobe roots-style supercharger has become the go-to choice for enthusiasts looking to add serious power to LS3, L99, and even LS1 engines. At Raw Exotics, we've completed dozens of LSA swaps, and I'm going to walk you through everything you need to know to successfully bolt 600+ horsepower onto your LS-powered ride.

Understanding the LSA Supercharger

Before we dive into the swap process, let's understand what makes the LSA supercharger special.

LSA Technical Specifications

• Type: Eaton TVS (Twin Vortices Series) R1900
• Displacement: 1.9 liters (1900cc)
• Design: Four-lobe roots-type positive displacement supercharger
• Boost: Factory boost levels of 9-10 psi
• Cooling: Integrated brick-style intercooler with coolant circulation
• Pulley: Factory 2.50" upper pulley (10-rib serpentine)
• Power capacity: 600-650 HP on pump gas, 700-800+ HP with supporting mods

Why Choose LSA Over Other Options?

The LSA supercharger has become hugely popular for several reasons:

• Cost: Used LSA assemblies run $2,500-4,000 - far less than new aftermarket kits ($7,000-10,000+)
• Availability: Crashed CTS-Vs and ZL1s provide steady supply of takeout units
• Factory reliability: Designed and tested by GM for street use
• Proven performance: Thousands of successful swaps documented
• Instant power: Roots-style delivery means massive low-end torque
• Compact packaging: Fits under most LS3 hoods without modification

LSA vs. LS9: What's the Difference?

The LSA and LS9 (Corvette ZR1) superchargers look similar but have key differences:

LSA (Eaton R1900):

• 1.9L displacement
• 9-10 psi factory boost
• 600-650 HP capability on stock motor
• Better for street builds (instant response, low-end torque)
• Less expensive

LS9 (Eaton R2300):

• 2.3L displacement (larger)
• 10.5 psi factory boost
• 650-750 HP capability on stock motor
• Better for peak power applications
• More expensive and harder to find

For most street cars, the LSA is the better choice - easier to find, less expensive, and adequate power for stock internals.

What You Need for an LSA Swap

An LSA swap requires more than just the supercharger itself. Here's a complete parts list.

Core Components

1. LSA Supercharger Assembly ($2,500-4,000)

What to look for when buying used:

• Complete assembly including intercooler brick and lid
• No bearing noise or whine when manually rotated
• No damage to rotors or case
• Include intercooler pump and reservoir if possible
• Verify all mounting bolt bosses are intact

2. Intake Manifold ($400-800)

Options:

• Stock LSA manifold: Works but not optimal for LS3 heads
• Magnuson/Harrop LS3-specific manifold: Better port matching to LS3 heads
• Custom ported LSA manifold: Modified for improved flow

3. Fuel System Upgrades ($800-1,500)

• High-flow fuel pump (Walbro 450 or Aeromotive A1000)
• Fuel injectors (60-80 lb/hr depending on power goals)
• Fuel pressure regulator (if switching to returnless system)
• Upgraded fuel lines (AN-6 or larger recommended)

4. Intercooler System ($300-600)

• Intercooler heat exchanger (front-mount radiator-style)
• Intercooler pump (factory ZL1 pump works great)
• Coolant reservoir
• Lines and fittings
• Low-temp thermostat for intercooler circuit

Supporting Modifications

5. ECU and Tuning ($800-1,500)

• HP Tuners MPVI3 interface and credits
• Professional dyno tuning session
• Wideband O2 sensor for tuning

6. Pulley System ($200-400)

• Upper pulley (2.50" stock, 2.35-2.45" for more boost)
• Lower pulley and belt
• Tensioner and idler pulleys
• 10-rib serpentine belt (correct length for your application)

7. Throttle Body ($350-550)

• 102-103mm throttle body (Nick Williams, FAST, or similar)
• Adapter plate if needed
• Throttle body extension for hood clearance

8. Miscellaneous Hardware ($300-500)

• LS3 to LSA mounting gaskets
• ARP head studs (highly recommended)
• Vacuum lines and fittings
• Boost reference tap
• Oil separator/catch can

Optional but Recommended

• Headers (eliminate exhaust restriction, add 30-50 HP)
• Heat exchanger sprayer system (reduces IAT on hot days)
• Upgraded transmission (8L90 stock handles ~600 HP/550 lb-ft)
• Stronger rear differential components
• Upgraded clutch (manual transmission cars)

The Swap Process: Step by Step

Here's how we approach LSA swaps at Raw Exotics.

Phase 1: Preparation and Teardown

1. Disconnect battery and depressurize fuel system

2. Remove factory intake manifold and accessories:

• Throttle body
• Fuel rails and injectors
• Intake manifold
• All vacuum lines and wiring

3. Install ARP head studs (if not already present):

LSA boost levels will push 550-600 HP on stock LS3 internals. Head studs prevent head gasket failure. We use ARP 234-4314 or equivalent.

4. Clean mating surfaces:

Thoroughly clean cylinder head surfaces and valley area. Any debris or old gasket material will cause vacuum leaks or worse.

Phase 2: Supercharger Installation

1. Test-fit LSA assembly:

Before fully installing, test-fit the supercharger to check for clearance issues with hood, brake booster, A/C lines, etc.

2. Install intake manifold gaskets:

Use quality Fel-Pro or GM gaskets designed for LSA to LS3 fitment. Apply thin bead of RTV to block-off water crossover passages.

3. Mount supercharger assembly:

Carefully lower LSA onto heads using engine hoist or with helper. The assembly weighs 60-80 pounds - don't drop it. Torque manifold bolts to 105 in-lbs in proper sequence (inside-out pattern).

4. Install throttle body:

Large throttle body (102-103mm) is essential for LSA builds. Some applications require throttle body extension for hood clearance.

Phase 3: Fuel System

1. Install upgraded fuel pump:

Most LS3 applications need in-tank fuel pump replacement. Walbro 450 supports 650 HP; Aeromotive A1000 handles 800+ HP.

2. Install fuel injectors:

60 lb/hr injectors support ~600 HP, 80 lb/hr supports ~750 HP. We typically use Injector Dynamics or Bosch injectors. Ensure proper clips and O-rings.

3. Connect fuel rails:

Stock LSA fuel rails work, or upgrade to aftermarket rails with -8 AN fittings for cleaner install and better flow.

Phase 4: Intercooler System

1. Mount heat exchanger:

Front-mount intercooler heat exchanger typically goes in front of radiator. Some prefer rear-mounted trunk setups for weight distribution.

2. Install pump and reservoir:

Factory ZL1 intercooler pump works great. Mount securely with vibration isolation. Reservoir typically mounts in engine bay.

3. Route coolant lines:

Connect intercooler brick to heat exchanger using -10 AN lines minimum. Ensure no kinks or sharp bends that restrict flow.

4. Fill and bleed system:

Use 50/50 coolant mix in intercooler circuit. Bleed all air from system - airlocks kill intercooler efficiency.

Phase 5: Belt System and Pulleys

1. Install lower pulley and tensioner:

LSA uses 10-rib serpentine belt system. Ensure proper alignment of all pulleys to prevent belt walk.

2. Choose upper pulley size:

Start with stock 2.50" for ~9 psi boost. Can drop to 2.35" for 12-13 psi (requires supporting mods and tuning).

3. Route and tension belt:

Follow GM belt routing diagram. Proper tension is critical - too loose causes slip, too tight loads bearings.

Phase 6: Wiring and Sensors

1. Connect fuel injector harness:

Larger injectors may require resistors or you may need to modify injector drivers in ECU calibration.

2. Install MAP sensor:

3-bar MAP sensor required for measuring boost pressure (stock is 1-bar for N/A applications).

3. Install wideband O2 sensor:

Essential for tuning. AEM X-Series or similar wideband mounted in exhaust collector.

4. Connect all sensors and electrical:

IAT sensor, throttle position sensor, intercooler temp sensor (if equipped).

Tuning the LSA Swap

This is where the magic happens - and where many swaps go wrong. Proper tuning is non-negotiable.

Base Calibration Changes

At minimum, tuning must address:

• Injector scaling: Update for new injector size and flow characteristics
• VE tables: Recalibrate for forced induction airflow
• Spark timing: Retard timing under boost to prevent detonation
• Fuel delivery: Target AFR of 11.0-11.5:1 under boost
• MAP sensor: Configure for 3-bar operation
• Boost safety: Set boost limits and knock retard thresholds

Dyno Tuning Process

We always dyno tune LSA swaps. Here's our process:

1. Baseline pulls (light boost):

Start conservative - 5-6 psi boost, rich AFR (11.0:1), retarded timing (16-18° total). Verify no leaks, proper fuel pressure, reasonable IAT.

2. Incremental timing advancement:

Add 1-2° timing per pull while monitoring for knock. Listen to engine and watch knock sensors religiously.

3. AFR optimization:

Start rich (11.0:1) for safety, lean out to 11.3-11.5:1 while watching EGT and knock. Richer is safer but wastes power.

4. Full boost testing:

Once timing and AFR are dialed at low boost, gradually increase boost to target level (stock pulley ~9 psi). Repeat timing and AFR optimization.

5. Street verification:

Test drive under various conditions to verify drivability, throttle response, and no knock under real-world loads.

Typical LSA Swap Power Numbers

Stock LS3 (6.2L) with LSA supercharger:

• Stock pulley (9 psi): 580-620 HP / 550-580 lb-ft
• Smaller pulley (11-12 psi): 620-680 HP / 580-620 lb-ft
• With headers and supporting mods: 650-700+ HP

Built LS3 (forged internals, cam):

• 13-15 psi boost: 750-850 HP
• E85 fuel: 800-900 HP possible

Common Issues and Solutions

Problem: Heat Soak / High IAT

Symptoms: Intake air temps climbing above 140-160°F, power loss after hard pulls

Solutions:

• Upgrade to larger heat exchanger
• Add intercooler sprayer system
• Increase coolant flow (larger pump or dual pumps)
• Verify proper airflow through heat exchanger

Problem: Belt Slip

Symptoms: Belt squealing under boost, inconsistent boost pressure

Solutions:

• Check belt tension (should deflect 1/4" under moderate pressure)
• Verify pulley alignment
• Replace worn belt
• Use quality Gates or Goodyear Gatorback belts

Problem: Fuel Pressure Drop Under Load

Symptoms: Lean AFR under boost, fuel pressure dropping below 58 psi

Solutions:

• Upgrade fuel pump
• Check for fuel line restrictions
• Verify fuel filter isn't clogged
• Consider dual fuel pump setup for extreme builds

Problem: Detonation / Knock

Symptoms: Engine knock/ping under boost, ECU pulling timing

Solutions:

• Retard timing (conservative timing is safe timing)
• Richen AFR (target 11.0-11.3:1)
• Lower boost (smaller pulley isn't always better)
• Use higher octane fuel (93 minimum, E85 or race gas better)
• Reduce IAT through better intercooling

Cost Breakdown

Here's a realistic budget for LSA swap on LS3 Camaro or similar:

Core components:

• LSA supercharger (used): $2,500-4,000
• Intake manifold: $400-800
• Fuel system (pump, injectors, lines): $1,200-1,800
• Intercooler system: $500-800
• Throttle body: $350-550
• Pulleys and belt system: $300-450

Supporting mods:

• HP Tuners and tuning: $800-1,500
• ARP head studs: $250-350
• Gaskets and hardware: $200-300
• Miscellaneous (lines, fittings, etc.): $300-500

Labor (if not DIY):

• Installation: $2,000-3,500
• Dyno tuning: $800-1,200

Total project cost: $9,000-15,000 depending on parts quality and labor

Compare this to $8,000-12,000 for new aftermarket supercharger kits with similar power - LSA swap offers better value, especially if you can do the install yourself.

Stock Bottom End Reliability

The big question: can stock LS3 internals handle LSA boost?

Short answer: Yes, with proper tuning and reasonable boost levels.

Stock LS3 limits:

• Conservative: 600 HP / 550 lb-ft (very safe, daily driver)
• Aggressive: 650-680 HP / 580-620 lb-ft (requires excellent tuning, quality fuel)
• Absolute max: 700-750 HP (pushing limits, not recommended for street use)

Factors affecting reliability:

• Tuning quality: Safe AFR and timing are everything
• Fuel octane: 93 pump gas minimum, E85 much safer
• Detonation control: Any knock will kill a stock motor quickly
• Oil quality: Use quality full synthetic, change frequently
• Heat management: Keep IAT and coolant temps under control

Final Thoughts

The LSA supercharger swap represents one of the best power-per-dollar modifications available for LS engines. For $10,000-12,000, you can transform a 430 HP LS3 into a 600+ HP beast that's still streetable and reliable.

The keys to success are simple: buy quality components, don't skip supporting modifications, and invest in professional tuning. Cut corners on tuning and you'll turn your engine into expensive scrap metal. Do it right and you'll have a reliable, powerful street car that embarrasses vehicles costing twice as much.

"The LSA swap is the modern equivalent of the classic small-block Chevy with a blower. It's proven, affordable, and makes glorious power. Just don't cheap out on the tune." - Josh Munford

At Raw Exotics, we've completed LSA swaps on everything from daily-driven Camaros to dedicated drag cars. Whether you want a turnkey installation or help with your DIY project, we have the experience to make your LSA swap successful. Stop by our Houston shop and let's discuss your build - 600 horsepower is closer than you think.